Repair and Maintenance of a Drascombe Lugger


Obtaining a new Gaff (3)
Making the Gaff

Having obtained all the required measurements, tools and the wood, this page begins the description of how to make the Gaff.

Starting with a Plank

The wood as delivered - Click for larger view The wooden plank as delivered from Robbins Timber

Here is the rough sawn wooden plank as delivered and before work had started on converting it into a gaff. It measured 50 mm (2") square and was 3,200 mm ( 10' 6") long.

Laminated spar?
One way to ensure that a spar remains straight and doesn't twist or warp involves cutting the un-shaped wood down the middle and gluing the bottom outside to the top inside. This counteracts any uneven stresses there may be, and also allows the grain to flow in the same direction, making it easier for shaping. Generally, most masts are two pieces laminated as described above, with a single glue line running fore and aft.

Not for the Drascombe!
Having said that John Watkinson specified solid wooden spars for the Lugger and most have been made that way. Bearing this in mind I decided not to split and glue the wood but to make the gaff from the solid plank. Anyone with concerns about using just a solid piece of wood only has to look at the vast number of Drascombes that are around with solid spars which show no problems.

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Cutting the wood to length - Click for larger view Stage 1 - Cutting the wood to length

The first task was to mark out the length of the yard (10' 2" or 3,100 mm), and then cut the plank to the correct length. A jig-saw was used for this. The 4" of plank that was left over was put on one side and later used to make the four halyard attachment wedges, glued to the sides of the completed yard.

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Marking out stage 1 - Click for larger view Stage 2 - Marking out

The next task was to shape the plank to a rectangular cross-section so that it measured 38 mm wide and 50 mm in depth.

First, a centre line was drawn down the face on one side of the plank (25 mm from the edges) using a steel straight edge.

Two lines were then drawn 19 mm either side of the centre line. The plank was then turned through 180° and the marking out process was repeated on the opposite side.

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Marking out stage 1 - Click for larger view Stage 2 - Marking out in progress

The photograph shows the marking out in progress using a steel straight-edge.

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Sketch of the wood after planing - Click for larger view Stage 3 - Planing the wood to width

The excess 6 mm of wood on each side of the plank was then removed using an electric power-plane. After this the plank measured 50 mm x 38 mm x 3,100 mm. The result is shown in the sketch (left).

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Sketch showing size & position of the lacing holes - Click for larger view Stage 4a - Marking the positions of the lacing holes

At this stage the positions of the two lacing holes were marked and drilled. It is easy to mark the position on the flat surface of the plank (before any shaping) relative to the mid-line of the spar previously marked. Accurate marking out and drilling of two closely spaced holes on the curved surface of the shaped yard would have been that much harder. The position of the holes is shown in the left sketch.

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Drilling the lacing holes - Click for larger view Stage 4b - Drilling the lacing holes

Because the two holes are so closely spaced, the drilling should be carried out with extreme care as there is little room for error. If at all possible the actual drilling should be done using a bench drill as shown in the photograph. The plank should be level and at right angles relative to the drill and positioned by means of a vice (as shown).

If a bench mounted drill is unavailable then a hand drill (rather than a hand held power drill) can be used but extreme care is needed to ensure that the holes are drilled at right angles to the wood.

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Completed lacing holes - Click for larger view Holes completed!

The photograph shows the completed holes as well as the pencil guidelines used for the marking out.

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Halyard attachment, 'Wedges' or 'Hole through the yard'?

At this stage the method of attachment of the gaff halyard should be decided. There are two options.

A hole drilled through the midpoint of the gaff will compromise its strength somewhat although I have not come across instances of gaff failure using this method. On the other hand wedges can be removed and re-positioned if the initial placing is incorrect. On balance my preferred option was to use the stunsail knot (which is very easy and quick to tie) in conjunction with the wedges. If a 'hole' is to be used for halyard attachment it should be marked out and drilled at this stage before the final shaping of the yard. The wedges can be glued to the sides of the gaff at a later stage of construction, after shaping but before varnishing.

Marking out the gaff profile

The measurements for the double-taper gaff profile are given in the sketch below. The method of obtaining these measurements is given on a separate page. Follow This Link for a detailed guide.

The profile measurements of the gaff - Click for larger view Measurements of the Double-Taper Gaff Profile

Here are the double-taper gaff profile measurements worked out by drawing on graph paper. These can now be plotted, in pencil, on each (50 mm) side of the gaff as described below.

Note that allowance has been made for the tang at the bottom of the yard which fits into the square socket welded to the stainless steel gaff jaws. The tang is 65 mm long and 36 mm square.

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Marking out the 20 parallel divisions - Click for larger view Stage 5 Marking Out the Parallel Divisions

Carefully measure out the 20 parallel divisions on each side of the plank. These have a spacing of 155 mm between each division. A try-square is used to ensure the lines are parallel. (See adjacent sketch for details).

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Plotting the curve - Click for larger view Stage 6 - Plotting the curve

Using the measurements from the profile diagram, the points of the curve can now be plotted in pencil on the parallel lines. Repeat for the other side of the plank. (See adjacent sketch for details).

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How to draw the curve - Click for larger view Stage 7 - How to draw the curve

The easiest way of joining up the points and drawing the outline of the curve is shown in the adjacent photograph.

Using a small hammer, lightly tap a pin into each of the plotted points on the parallel lines.

Next, place a thin flexible strip of plastic or wood so that it is pressed against and makes contact with all the pins from the end of the gaff to the middle.

The line of the curve can now be pencilled in using the strip as a template. Repeat for the other end of the gaff. Remove the pins, turn the gaff over and repeat the process on the other side.

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Sketch of completed curve - Click for larger view Sketch of completed curve

This sketch shows what the completed plot of the curve should look like.

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Photograph of profile drawn on gaff - Click for larger view Photograph of Completed curve

This photograph of part of the gaff shows the outline of the profile drawn on in pencil using the techniques described above.

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Shaping the profile - Click for larger view Shaping the Gaff Profile

Having marked out the profile on the wood, the next stage is to plane the excess wood away, down to the profile line. This is easiest to do with a power-plane (but could also be done with a jack-plane). Take care if using a power plane as it is very easy to take off too much wood!

The sketch shows the profile of the plank after planing away the waste wood.

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Shaping the profile - Click for larger view

The description of the construction of the Gaff is continued on the next page.


Click on link below to continue

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