Repair and Maintenance of a Drascombe Lugger
Renovating the Teak Gunwales
This page describes the construction of the teak gunwale
on the early Luggers and then describes the renovation of
the weathered teak gunwales on Sospiri.
Early Luggers tended to have the gunwales constructed
from two complete unbroken lengths of teak. However, the
ever increasing cost of teak forced a modification in
construction techniques where instead of a single piece
of teak, each gunwale was made using several lengths
scarfed together.
Sospiri is an early Mk 2 Lugger with each gunwale
constructed from a single length of teak with a slot in
the undersurface. This slot neatly accommodates the GRP
of the top of the deck moulding and the top of the hull
moulding (See sketch below). Both gunwales are in
good condition which is very fortunate as replacements to
the same specification would be prohibitively expensive.
However, it was quite obvious that, like the other teak
components on the boat, the teak had been left untreated
for some considerable time. The wood had weathered to the
characteristic grey colour and green lichen was
developing in the grain.
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Sketch illustrating how the Teak Gunwale is
attached to the topsides
The gunwale consists of a single length of teak,
almost square in section, with a slot cut into the
bottom. It is cleverly designed both to protect the
tops of the GRP deck and hull mouldings from impact
and water ingress. The mouldings are partially
bonded together with a sandwich of bonding putty
between them. A slot in the base of the gunwale
accommodates the top of both mouldings and further
holds them together. A series of bronze wood screws
secures the gunwale in place, gives it additional
resilience against splitting and ensures that the
GRP mouldings are held securely in place.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Treatment
A full discussion of the options for treating teak is
given elswhere on this site (See Teak, coating). In
common with the other teak components it was decided to
sand away the weathered teak before coating with
Burgess Marine Woodsealer.
It would be possible to remove the gunwale from the hull
by unscrewing all the bronze screws and easing off.
However this is a fairly major operation and would
probably involve replacement of at least some of the
bronze wood screws. It might also prove difficult to
relocate the gunwale which would possibly straighten out
once released from the curve of the topsides.
It was therefore decided to treat the gunwales in place
on the boat. This was carried out as follows;
- Use a sanding block (dry) with 80 grit (white
Aluminium oxide paper is best), to sand the tops and
sides of the gunwales. Continue until the weathered
patina is removed and the pale brown of fresh wood is
exposed. This takes time to do properly and is best
tackled a bit at a time (a length of about half a metre
is a good guide), unless you have a team of willing
helpers!.
- Once the initial half metre of gunwale, top and
sides, has been sanded, take a short strip of the paper
and use with the tips of the fingers to rub down the
exposed underside of the gunwale, adjacent to the top of
the hull (take care not to abrade the GRP).
- Wipe the newly sanded wood with White Spirit to
degrease it and remove dust. Allow to dry completely
- Apply several coats of Burgess Marine
Woodsealer. Rather than applying by brush, the best
method of application is to use a ball of cotton or linen
material dipped in the Woodsealer and then wiped onto the
surface of the wood. This produces a good even coat and
minimises the risk of the sealer running/dripping on to
the gelcoat of the topsides therby staining it. Allow to
dry between coats.
- Start preparing the next length of gunwale to be
treated.
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The starboard Teak Gunwale under treatment
At the top of the picture a short length of the
teak gunwale has been sanded, and then coated with
the Woodsealer. The bottom of the photograph
shows the original condition of the teak which has
been weathered to a characteristic grey colour.
Green lichen is growing in the cracks of the grain.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Project started March 2002 and completed June 2002