This page gives guidance for assembly and installation of
the completed floorboards.
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Coating with Epoxy
Before assembly, all the wooden components were
given two coats of West Epoxy and then sanded with
80 followed by 120 Aluminium Oxide paper as a key
to final varnishing (after assembly).
(Click on image for larger view)
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Top of
pilot hole in plank drilled to 10 mm for plug
The pilot hole can now be prepared for the size 8,
1" wood screw which, with the glue, locates and
fastens the planks to the bearers. First of all,
using a drill, the holes are widened to a diameter
of 10 mm to a depth of 5 mm. This will eventuallly
take a wooden plug which will cover the head of the
screw.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Bottom of pilot hole in plank drilled to 4 mm for
screw shank
The bottom of the pilot hole in the planks can now
be drilled to a diameter of 4 mm. This will take
the shank of the locating wood screw.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Boards placed upside down across bench &
screws inserted
The boards can most easily be assembled by placing
them across a bench so that the screw holes are
accessible from beneath at both ends (see diagram)
The screws can now be inserted (from beneath) and
driven home until just the tips are protruding from
the top surfaces of the planks.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Epoxy glue applied to bearers and planks
Epoxy glue is applied to both mating surfaces of
the bearers and planks. and the bearers are placed
on top of the planks and moved until the screw tips
have engaged with the corresponding holes in the
bearers.
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Screws are driven fully home
Once the screw tips have been located in the
corresponding holes in the bearers, they can be
driven fully home.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Assembled bearers & planks
This picture shows the assembled planks and bearers
after screwing and gluing them together. Some
excess glue will ooze out along the joints when the
screws are driven home. These oozings can be made
into fillets by dragging the rounded end of a piece
of dowel along the joints. Fillets ensure a very
strong joint and also protect the join from any
possible water ingress. It is important to
remove all excess glue at this stage, with a piece
of paper towel, as it is impossible to remove after
it has cured.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Plugs cut for filling screw heads
A 10 mm plug cutter was used for cutting plugs from
off-cuts of the Western Red Cedar.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Plugs glued in position
The plugs were glued in position using Epoxy glue
and ensuring the the grain of the plugs ran
parallel with that of the planks.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Plug sanded down & varnished
The plugs were sanded down flush with the surface
of the planks, coated with Epoxy, and then
varnished with the rest of the wooden components.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Making the locking pegs
The last components to glue in position on the
starboard planks were the two locking pegs. These
interlock with two corresponding sockets on the
port boards and are most easily made from off-cuts
of the same wood that the other components were
made of. They were fastened in position using Epoxy
glue (See drawings for dimensions).
(Click on image for larger view)
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Detail of peg & socket arrangement
This picture of the underside of the boards shows
in detail how the peg and socket arrangement holds
the two sets of boards together.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Finished boards, top view
A top view of the completed boards, varnished,
ready for installation.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Finished boards, bottom view
Bottom view of the completed boards, showing the
front and back bearers.
(Click on image for larger view)
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They Fit!
Here is a picture of the completed boards installed
in the rear locker of the Lugger.
(Click on image for larger view)
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Detail showing drain plug cut-out
Detail of the installed boards showing how the
cut-out gives access to the scupper hole in the aft
locker.
(Click on image for larger view)
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