This sketch gives the measurements of the board which can easily be used to mark the wood up for cutting. Check that these dimensions correspond to those of the the old board by laying the old board on top. After cutting out the board all edges are rounded off using Grade 80 sandpaper, and the pointed front end is cut and sanded to a blunt shape.

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A unique feature of Board 9 is a small circular hole 24 mm in diameter, located on the mid line of the board, 317 mm from the aft end (See sketch plan above). This forms a useful 'Hand Hold' when removing or replacing the boards in the boat. It can be easily made either by using a 24 mm (1 inch) diameter wood cutting bit in a power drill or else, as shown here, by using the appropriate bit in a 'Brace and Bit' wood borer. When making the hole whether by electric drill or Brace & Bit, it is essential to ensure that a scrap piece of wood is clamped beneath the board (as shown in the photo), directly beneath where the drilling bit will exit the floorboard. This is to prevent the wood splintering when the metal bit breaks out of the hole on the underside of the board. After drilling, use a scrap of 80 grit sandpaper to work around the top and bottom of the hole, by hand, to ensure that the sharp edges are rounded off.

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This sketch plan gives the dimensions of Board 10 which is the longest of all the boards. As with Board 9, Board 10 can be marked up using the dimensions given on this plan and then checked by laying the old board on top and allowing for any variation. After marking up the board can be cut out by jigsaw.

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The unique feature of Board 10 is a central rebate along the inner edge of the board where it abuts against the base of the centreplate case. This rebate is a clever bit of design as it makes removing the boards from the boat much easier by allowing them to be tilted back against the centreplate case prior to lifting out. It also prevents the board from fouling the ledge which runs along the base of the outer part of the centreplate casing. The rebate is 20 mm wide and is cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

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There are several ways of cutting the angled rebate on Board 10. The method shown here uses a jig saw set up with a cutting angle of 45 degrees from the horizontal. Start in the middle of the rebate and ease the saw along the pencilled line of the rebate and, at the end, turn it towards the outer edge to complete the cut and produce a pleasing curve. repeat for the other end of the rebate. A sanding block with grade 80 grit can be used for finishing off and also for rounding off all the other edges of the board.

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Photograph showing one end of the completed rebate on Board 10.

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This board is located in front of the centreplate casing. There is a cut-out to accommodate the centreplate uphaul/downhaul tackle and also to allow the mainmast to be located in the step below deck level. Use a set-square and straight-edge to mark up the basic rectangular shape and the narrow part of the Board. Next use a compass to mark out the circular part of the cut-out. The whole board can then be cut to shape using a jigsaw. Finish off by rounding the edges off with 80 grit sandpaper.

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This simple rectangular-shaped board is the easiest to make. Like all the other boards, once cut out the sharp edges are sanded to give a rounded profile.

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