Repair and Maintenance of a Drascombe Lugger


Replacing the Wooden Floor Boards
(page 5 of 5)

This page concludes the step by step guide to the construction of the new floorboards. Following on from the construction of the boards, this section describes the techniques for applying a protective coating of Epoxy and the final assembly of the boards ready for use.

Coating with Epoxy

Before assembly, all the boards were coated with clear West Epoxy resin. Epoxy gives much better protection than varnish alone. The boards were laid out and the catalysed epoxy resin applied by brush. To avoid sanding between successive applications, a second coating was applied within 6 hours of the first. After this second application had cured, the boards were turned over and two coats applied to the opposite side. After the final coating had cured, the boards were thoroughly washed with fresh water and a nylon abrasive pad (to remove any traces of Amine Blush), and abraded (dry) using 80 Grade Silicon Carbide paper with a sanding block. The boards were then ready for assembly.


Photo of boards laid out for coating with epoxy

The boards laid out and the first coat of epoxy resin applied.

Putting it all Together
Setting and Marking out the Position of the Bracing Boards

Select a flat area, preferably under cover, where a set of (either port or starboard) longitudinal boards can be set out, upside down, in their correct relative positions (i.e. as they would be positioned within the boat). Each board should have a 12 mm gap between it and it's neighbour. The aft ends of Boards 8, 9, 10 & 11 should all be in a straight line - as shown in the picture below.

Starboard longitudinal boards laid out in assembly position The Starboard longitudinal Boards set out in Position

The photograph shows the starboard set of longitudinal boards set out in position, upside down. The aft ends of the boards are in a straight line. Measuring from the aft end, the positions of the cross boards were plotted and then marked on the boards with a pencil.

(Click on image for larger view)

Position of one of the bracing boards marked out on the longitudinal boards The Position of one of the bracing boards marked out on the longitudinal boards

This picture shows the starboard set of longitudinal boards set out in position, upside down, with the position of one of the cross boards pencilled in

(Click on image for larger view)

Tools used for fastening the boards Tools used for Fastening the Boards

The drill bit on the left of the photograph was used first to make the 10 mm diameter holes for the wooden plugs. The masking tape set the depth of 5 mm.

Next the 5 mm diameter drill (third from left), was used to drill the hole for the 10 mm long shank of the woodscrew. A depth stop was used to set the overall depth of 15 mm.

Then the 3 mm diameter drill (second from left), was used to drill the hole for the threaded part of the woodscrew. The depth stop was set to an overall depth of 37 mm.

The alan key (top of picture, above drill bits),was used to set the depth stops on the drills. The other items shown are a 10 mm plug cutter (extreme right), used for cutting the wooden plugs, and a size 10, 32 mm long stainless steel woodscrew (bottom of picture). These screws were used throughout.

(Click on image for larger view)

Drilling the hole for the plug
The holes drilled for the plugs
Drilling the hole for the Plug

A 10 mm diameter drill was used to drill the holes for the plugs in the cross boards. These holes are drilled to a maximum depth of 5 mm as shown in the photograph.

(Click on image for larger view)

Drilling the hole for the screw shank
The holes drilled for the screw shank
Drilling the hole for the Screw Shank

A 5 mm diameter drill was used to drill the holes for the screw shanks in the cross boards. This hole is drilled to a maximum depth of 15 mm as shown in the photograph.

(Click on image for larger view)

Drilling the hole for the screw thread
Drilling the hole for the Screw Thread

A 3 mm diameter drill was used to drill the holes for the screw threads in the cross boards. This hole was drilled to a maximum depth of 37 mm.

(Click on image for larger view)

Applying Epoxy glue to the boards
Applying Epoxy glue to the surfaces to be fastened

Epoxy glue was applied to the mating surfaces of the cross boards and floor boards in preparation for them to be glued and screwed together. The glue used was West Epoxy mixed with 404 Additive powder which makes a very strong adhesive.

(Click on image for larger view)

Screwing and gluing the boards together
Screwing and gluing the boards together
Screwing and gluing the boards together

After applying the Epoxy, the cross boards were placed in position on the floor boards and screwed together using the stainless screws inserted into the previously drilled holes. Excess Epoxy squeezing out of the joints was wiped off using a spatula and tissues. In the photograph, an electric drill with a screwdriver attachment is being used to drive the screws home.

(Click on image for larger view)

Making the wooden plugs
Making the wooden screw hole plugs

These were made by using the plug cutter on a spare piece (or off-cut), of the pine used to make the boards. A bench mounted electric drill is essential for this operation with the wood held firmly in a vice or by means of a clamp. The photograph shows how a whole series of plugs can be made from an offcut. After drilling, the plugs need to be prised off the plank. The blade of a screwdriver is a good tool for doing this.

(Click on image for larger view)

Inserting and gluing the wooden plugs
Inserting a wooden plug
Inserting and gluing the wooden plugs

Epoxy resin with a small amount of fller 404 was used to glue the wooden plugs in place. After applying the glue, the plugs were gently tapped home, into the holes using a small hammer. After the glue had cured, the tops of the plugs were sanded flush with the boards.

Note that the best finish is achieved by ensuring that the wood grain of the plug runs parallel to that of the board into which it is inserted.

(Click on image for larger view)

Diagram showing plug head, sanded flush with board
Detail of boards after sanding the plugs and overall varnishing
Sanding down the plugs and varnishing

To finish off the plugs were sanded flush with the boards using a sanding block and 80 grade grit paper (used dry).

Finally the completed boards were given two coats of two-pack polyurethane varnish. Some granulated sugar added to the final coat of varnish on the upper surfaces of the boards gives an excellent non-slip finish!

(Click on image for larger view)

Finished boards, undersides
The completed boards, undersides

Photograph showing the completed two sets of boards. This view of the undersides shows the arrangement of the cross boards.

(Click on image for larger view)

Finished boards, fitted into the boat
The completed Boards Fitted in the Boat

Photograph showing the completed two sets of boards fitted into the boat.

(Click on image for larger view)

Project started March 2003 and completed 7 July 2003

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