The photograph shows the starboard set of longitudinal boards set out in position, upside down. The aft ends of the boards are in a straight line. Measuring from the aft end, the positions of the cross boards were plotted and then marked on the boards with a pencil.

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This picture shows the starboard set of longitudinal boards set out in position, upside down, with the position of one of the cross boards pencilled in

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The drill bit on the left of the photograph was used first to make the 10 mm diameter holes for the wooden plugs. The masking tape set the depth of 5 mm.

Next the 5 mm diameter drill (third from left), was used to drill the hole for the 10 mm long shank of the woodscrew. A depth stop was used to set the overall depth of 15 mm.

Then the 3 mm diameter drill (second from left), was used to drill the hole for the threaded part of the woodscrew. The depth stop was set to an overall depth of 37 mm.

The alan key (top of picture, above drill bits),was used to set the depth stops on the drills. The other items shown are a 10 mm plug cutter (extreme right), used for cutting the wooden plugs, and a size 10, 32 mm long stainless steel woodscrew (bottom of picture). These screws were used throughout.

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A 10 mm diameter drill was used to drill the holes for the plugs in the cross boards. These holes are drilled to a maximum depth of 5 mm as shown in the photograph.

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A 5 mm diameter drill was used to drill the holes for the screw shanks in the cross boards. This hole is drilled to a maximum depth of 15 mm as shown in the photograph.

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A 3 mm diameter drill was used to drill the holes for the screw threads in the cross boards. This hole was drilled to a maximum depth of 37 mm.

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Epoxy glue was applied to the mating surfaces of the cross boards and floor boards in preparation for them to be glued and screwed together. The glue used was West Epoxy mixed with 404 Additive powder which makes a very strong adhesive.

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After applying the Epoxy, the cross boards were placed in position on the floor boards and screwed together using the stainless screws inserted into the previously drilled holes. Excess Epoxy squeezing out of the joints was wiped off using a spatula and tissues. In the photograph, an electric drill with a screwdriver attachment is being used to drive the screws home.

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These were made by using the plug cutter on a spare piece (or off-cut), of the pine used to make the boards. A bench mounted electric drill is essential for this operation with the wood held firmly in a vice or by means of a clamp. The photograph shows how a whole series of plugs can be made from an offcut. After drilling, the plugs need to be prised off the plank. The blade of a screwdriver is a good tool for doing this.

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Epoxy resin with a small amount of fller 404 was used to glue the wooden plugs in place. After applying the glue, the plugs were gently tapped home, into the holes using a small hammer. After the glue had cured, the tops of the plugs were sanded flush with the boards.

Note that the best finish is achieved by ensuring that the wood grain of the plug runs parallel to that of the board into which it is inserted.

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To finish off the plugs were sanded flush with the boards using a sanding block and 80 grade grit paper (used dry).

Finally the completed boards were given two coats of two-pack polyurethane varnish. Some granulated sugar added to the final coat of varnish on the upper surfaces of the boards gives an excellent non-slip finish!

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Photograph showing the completed two sets of boards. This view of the undersides shows the arrangement of the cross boards.

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Photograph showing the completed two sets of boards fitted into the boat.

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