Here is the rough sawn wooden plank as delivered and before work had started on converting it into a gaff. It measured 50 mm (2") square and was 3,200 mm ( 10' 6") long.

Laminated spar?
One way to ensure that a spar remains straight and doesn't twist or warp involves cutting the un-shaped wood down the middle and gluing the bottom outside to the top inside. This counteracts any uneven stresses there may be, and also allows the grain to flow in the same direction, making it easier for shaping. Generally, most masts are two pieces laminated as described above, with a single glue line running fore and aft.

Not for the Drascombe!
Having said that John Watkinson specified solid wooden spars for the Lugger and most have been made that way. Bearing this in mind I decided not to split and glue the wood but to make the gaff from the solid plank. Anyone with concerns about using just a solid piece of wood only has to look at the vast number of Drascombes that are around with solid spars which show no problems.

(Click on image for larger view)

The first task was to mark out the length of the yard (10' 2" or 3,100 mm), and then cut the plank to the correct length. A jig-saw was used for this. The 4" of plank that was left over was put on one side and later used to make the four halyard attachment wedges, glued to the sides of the completed yard.

(Click on image for larger view)

The next task was to shape the plank to a rectangular cross-section so that it measured 38 mm wide and 50 mm in depth.

First, a centre line was drawn down the face on one side of the plank (25 mm from the edges) using a steel straight edge.

Two lines were then drawn 19 mm either side of the centre line. The plank was then turned through 180° and the marking out process was repeated on the opposite side.

(Click on image for larger view)

The photograph shows the marking out in progress using a steel straight-edge.

(Click on image for larger view)

The excess 6 mm of wood on each side of the plank was then removed using an electric power-plane. After this the plank measured 50 mm x 38 mm x 3,100 mm. The result is shown in the sketch (left).

(Click on images for larger view)

At this stage the positions of the two lacing holes were marked and drilled. It is easy to mark the position on the flat surface of the plank (before any shaping) relative to the mid-line of the spar previously marked. Accurate marking out and drilling of two closely spaced holes on the curved surface of the shaped yard would have been that much harder. The position of the holes is shown in the left sketch.

(Click on images for larger view)

Because the two holes are so closely spaced, the drilling should be carried out with extreme care as there is little room for error. If at all possible the actual drilling should be done using a bench drill as shown in the photograph. The plank should be level and at right angles relative to the drill and positioned by means of a vice (as shown).

If a bench mounted drill is unavailable then a hand drill (rather than a hand held power drill) can be used but extreme care is needed to ensure that the holes are drilled at right angles to the wood.

(Click on images for larger view)

The photograph shows the completed holes as well as the pencil guidelines used for the marking out.

(Click on images for larger view)

Here are the double-taper gaff profile measurements worked out by drawing on graph paper. These can now be plotted, in pencil, on each (50 mm) side of the gaff as described below.

Note that allowance has been made for the tang at the bottom of the yard which fits into the square socket welded to the stainless steel gaff jaws. The tang is 65 mm long and 36 mm square.

(Click on image for larger view)

Carefully measure out the 20 parallel divisions on each side of the plank. These have a spacing of 155 mm between each division. A try-square is used to ensure the lines are parallel. (See adjacent sketch for details).

(Click on image for larger view)

Using the measurements from the profile diagram, the points of the curve can now be plotted in pencil on the parallel lines. Repeat for the other side of the plank. (See adjacent sketch for details).

(Click on image for larger view)

The easiest way of joining up the points and drawing the outline of the curve is shown in the adjacent photograph.

Using a small hammer, lightly tap a pin into each of the plotted points on the parallel lines.

Next, place a thin flexible strip of plastic or wood so that it is pressed against and makes contact with all the pins from the end of the gaff to the middle.

The line of the curve can now be pencilled in using the strip as a template. Repeat for the other end of the gaff. Remove the pins, turn the gaff over and repeat the process on the other side.

(Click on image for larger view)

This sketch shows what the completed plot of the curve should look like.

(Click on image for larger view)

This photograph of part of the gaff shows the outline of the profile drawn on in pencil using the techniques described above.

(Click on image for larger view)

Having marked out the profile on the wood, the next stage is to plane the excess wood away, down to the profile line. This is easiest to do with a power-plane (but could also be done with a jack-plane). Take care if using a power plane as it is very easy to take off too much wood!

The sketch shows the profile of the plank after planing away the waste wood.

(Click on image for larger view)